when it comes to yohji yamamoto’s work, war as a motif is no stranger. some of his most coveted pieces such as the painted pinup-girl jackets from 1991 have explicit references to wars in different time periods, while some pieces reference and discuss the topic of war in a subtle manner.
the ready-to-wear womenswear pieces in his ss03 collection were presented with multiple allusions to the social nuances that come about with war. female models were seen draped in black militaristic attire, such as military trench coats, boiler suits and japanese army breaches that were all carefully calibrated by yohji with a feminine twist.
by showcasing his work in such a way, it propounds the idea of femininity in war. due to the world wars, women had to take on the traditionally masculine societal role of providing for their families by going out to work, just like yohji’s mother, whilst their male counterparts are at the frontlines.
at the same time, the men are forced to reveal and confront their feminine side in the battlefield, showing an extensive amount of care, comradeship and emotions that are not as tolerant by society in peacetime. yohji was able to encapsulate these emotions beautifully in his work, expressing the rawness and realities of war that the generation that preceded him faced, creating a beguiling tribute to the past.
previously written and posted by me on: https://www.instagram.com/p/CmB_TfXv1tM/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
26seicho 